Tuesday, 15 November 2011

Back in the UK

The end of the season lift out saw strong winds blowing across Crazydream and we were glad to be on the hard and not trying to shelter from the 42 kts plus that blew over her that night. We hid down below with the volume turned up on the DVD to drown the noise of the wind and tried to ignore the shaking of the boat. Thankfully it was dry and the jobs went ahead as planned with time to chill a little on the last day. There was a general strike in Greece on the day before we flew home - fine we thought it won't affect us! There was in fact a back log of flights to catch up and air traffic control were working to rule. It could have been a lot worse than the five hour delay we did incure.

Back in the Uk and straight back to work, P at the hospital working on the bank in Orthopaedics and G DIYing for family and friends. The purchase of a car making life a lot easier and made us independent rather than relying on others. Hopefully the Hyundai Accent will do us as well as the Citreon, we can only wait and see - it was the right price!!

Now that we are back we have taken the plunge and booked a trip that we have been thinking about for the last 18 months. With the inheritance from P's Mum we no longer had the excuse that we couldn't afford a trip to see good friends Mads and Rick in Australia. The flights are booked, a campervan hire arranged, East coast Australia here we come!

Tuesday, 27 September 2011

End of the Season

A stop off in Lakki (our home port)on the way south to clean the boat and recharge the batteries found some changes to the marina. You now have to pay extra for water and electric even if you have a contract with them. It's not a lot but when the water is salty and not drinkable it seems a rip off. Needless to say it has made us think of moving on after this winter, who knows where yet though!
A quick sail running downwind saw us in Kos for Jane and Marks annual hols with us. We hired a car to enable us to do a big shop and and to pick them up from the airport. No buses connect with the easyjet flight and a taxi was the same as the car hire. Amazing how much you can get in an Atos!
A decision to go south was made so that a new area to Jane and MArk could be explored but it meant a long first day, 37nm. The wind was favourable and we sailed most of the way and with the sea temperature at 29-30'C a swim on arrival in an anchorage to revive us all before the first of many bbq's.
The weather or rather the wind was kind and we cruised around the island of Symi and some anchorages in Hisaronu Korfezi, illegal as it was Turkish waters and we didn't have a transit log or visa's for Turkey but not a problem. No one approached us or questioned us except if they were trying to sell their goods from their boats. We enjoyed returning to these anchorages and it makes us think we will cruise this area again next year.
The trouble with going south is you have to come back north at some time and with the prevailing wind coming from the north it makes it a little difficult at times. We had to change our destination once due to the uncomfy sea and wind. The thought of 7 hours to get there helped in the decision but we ended up in a rolly anchorage which 2 out of 4 on board (the girls) found nauseating, even the daily game of scrabble had to be abandoned! It saw us up before the sun, anchor up and nav lights on, moving off by 5.30am. The wind and sea was much kinder that day and we had a pleasant sail to Nisiros.
On to Kos saw our lines taken from Chris on Vonasi, on his own for a few weeks whilst Claire was home with her mum. He joined us on a couple of sails to anchorages and at Kalimnos town, the two westerly yachts "racing" each other. Well two boats going the same way constitutes a race! One all and then different destinations for the third race and the fact that Crazydream reefed made the "race" null and void!
After just over two weeks is was time for Jane and Mark to depart and us to make our way to Lakki and then the boatyard to be lifted. We are heading home earlier this year to get some extra work in and thus hopefully a bit more money for the year ahead.

Friday, 26 August 2011

Back to Greek Islands

We checked out of Turkey the easy way, by paying an agent. They take all your paperwork and passports, get the relevant bits stamped and return them all to you on the boat. For a sum of course but we felt 30€ an ok price, they even did it on the Saturday knowing we weren't going till the Sunday.

We motor'd across to Symi town, stocks were low again! Symi is a lovely town but from a yachs point of view the north quay is the better, shade earlier in the evening and no loud bars. Unfortunately the harbour has "mooring men" who tell you where you're to go and if you object greatly they get the port police. Needless to say we were outside the noisy bar playing music till 4am - oh well only for one night!
We moved round to Pedi a bay just south of Symi town, to anchor next to Miss Sophie, Finnish friends Gustaf and Harriet from Kalamata. Pedi is a beautiful bay and visited by many yachts unfortunately the holding is not great. We happily sat there for two nights but late afternoon on the third day we dragged our anchor. Miss Sophie had already moved onto the quay and there was space opposite them which we took. A little later many boats were dragging as the wind had increased and we took pity on a 30ft New Zealand Wharram catamaran and moored them alongside us. The quay is where the water boat and supply ships moor and although we stayed on the quay for a week we moved five times (kept the batteries topped up!). The ship with the gravel delivery was the last straw, the boat got covered with dust - time to move on.

A weather window saw us sail to Nisiros where C'est la Vie were moored, more socialising and a stay of 4 nights. Supplies were going down quickly! The port police were active in Nisiros but at a charge of 4€ a night (the longer you stay the cheaper it works out) wasn't a problem. There was water and electric if you wanted it at a small charge but no washing off boats as their water is brought onto the island by tanker. Surprising how many people were trying to wash their boats.
With Crazydream still filthy, we left for Kos sailing at good speeds for the first hour then the wind turned off till the corner of Kos when 26 knots plus and big seas hit us. P had a sense of humour failure at this time and wanted to get off, a canal boat or camper van being a preferred option. Thankfully it only lasted an hour and we were then safely tied up in the marina washing the boat down.

On to Kalimnos town the next day, again to windward but this time well reefed and ready for the 25 knots. Once clear of the shallows on the NE corner of Kos and headed more west it was a very pleasant sail, well till we came out of the shelter of Pserimos then it was G's turn at the helm and a bit more reef. Again strangely the wind turned off about half hour out of Kalimnos and the iron sail came into use again! We could see a yacht still sailing slowly approaching Kalimnos from the opposite direction, we knew it would be Vonasi, Chris and Claire who we were meeting in the town. They are the boat that will sail everywhere even if its only at half a knot. There was space on the quay, in fact we moored next to Just Maid and Cloud 9 with Vonasi coming in next to us half hour later. More socialising! One of the gatherings was a wake for Geoff of Matapan, a great man and good friend who lost his fight against brain cancer. We all knew him and shared some good memories and a few drinks in Geoff's honour, we even played some Leonard Cohen, his favourite artist but found that far too depressing and settled for Take That, humourous to those who knew Geoff.
It was good to catch up with everybody and to sit out another blow (the Greek islands are definately cooler because of the breeze) but time to move on. We decided to head north for a bit till Jane and Mark come out for their annual holiday. We anchored for a couple of nights abstaining from alcholol - the livers needed a rest before heading to Lipsi.
Another blow was forecast and its a good place to sit although its always windy there. Surprise surprise, Just Maid and Cloud 9 had arrived an hour before us - more socialising. The quay is free unless you have water and/or electric and so we stayed beyond the blow waving the others goodbye till next year, they were going further north and we only wanted to get to Arki. Saints day festival, wine festival, good food, easy shopping, nice beach all helps to keep you in Lipsi

Saturday, 23 July 2011

More Turkey


We met Ian and Yvonne in the Hisaronu Korfezi, a large bay to the north and north east of the Greek island of Symi.The bay has numerous anchorages many of which we'd see in the next few weeks. We managed a lunchtime reunion and swim before heading into Orhaniye. Possibly the only time you'll see Crazydream anchored with a Sunsail boat alongside!! We even moored on the Sunsail pontoon and became honorary flotilla members for a few days. It was great to catch up and reminisce over the trip along the Portuguese coast and our winter in Portimao. We followed the flotilla over to Symi to re-stock on beer, wine and pork but parted ways after that as they were going to windward!!
Back in Orhaniye Rashit of Anil Marine canvas work having measured for our spray hood fitted the finished article but sadly needed a little tweaking and would be back in a few days for the final fitting. We hung around in the anchorage meeting up with boats we hadn't seen in a while, needless to say a few sore heads all round. Orhaniye is an idyllic anchorage with numerous restaurant jetties, mini markets, a chandlery and weekly market. There's also a marina if you feel the need but with a quote of over 3000 euros for 6 months winter on the hard for Crazydream we didn't use it. We waited around in the area for the Spray hood and also Kathryn, aka windy witch who was joining us for 10 days. Both arrived on the same day, Spray hood fitting very well along with new hatch covers and a steering wheel cover, tarting (whoops G says smartening) the boat up nicely.

With the boat stocked and sea worthy we set off to different anchorages around Hisaronu Korfezi. Windy witch was not living up to her name and we had some pleasant light wind sails covering over 100nm in 9 days. Sods law as Kathryn left the wind increased!
We'd come to the end of our 3 month visa in Turkey and decided we'd head back to Greece and the Dodecanese islands in the hope that they might be abit cooler and to meet up with yet more cruising friends who are in the area

Tuesday, 21 June 2011

Turkey

Bozburun, there are many places with this name but the one that we went to in the Yesilova Korfezi, east of Datca, is a quiet village where you can check into Turkey with relative ease. You use an agent who does all the work for you, stamps from immigration, customs, health authority and the harbourmaster all for a sum of 85€ plus £10 each for the visa. This enabled us or rather P to go and find the telly in the local working mens club which was tuned to the BBC for the Royal Wedding. Had to go and see the dress, the kiss and the fly by!
The village was a little touristy but kept its charm of Turkey. It is a large boat yard for gulets with hundreds ashore there for the winter, they still build them there with plans to build the largest gulet over 120m long, starting later this year. Gulets were coming into the tiny harbour to get maintanence work done before they're season started. It can be quite nerve racking when a large gulet, they're passerelle is as long as Crazydream, is mooring the side of you into a space that just doesn't look big enough. They certainly know how to handle their boats. We were pleased we choose to check in here and not Marmaris. A slow intro to Turkey.

We headed off round the coast with Rassy Lady stopping in anchorages before entering Marmaris Bay. Rassy Lady were again glad to have G close by as this year was their year of failures - alternator, halyard snapping, broken batterns in the sail...... G was happy to help and rewarded well for it.
Marmaris town is a haven for yachties, chandleries galore, workshops that will make anything but the downside is its full of tacky tourist places, and late night loud music clubs. If it was this loud in May we can only imagine what August will be like!
We were glad to leave the noise of the town but we were also moving on from Rassy Lady, they were heading back to the UK for the hot months.
We managed some sailing on our journey east along the coast but the weather was still unsettled and the thunderstorms when we were in Tomb Bay cleaned the boat nicely! The bays in Fethiye Korfezi have original names, Ruin Bay because there's a ruin, Tomb Bay because there's tombs, Wall Bay because there's a wall - you get the idea. All idyllic but dropping your anchor in 15-20m of water and tying back to the shore, fine if the water is warm enough to swim ashore!

We continued onto Kekova Roads our goal for the season before it got too busy in the height of the season. Sadly we were a little dissappointed with Kekova, its very pretty but very similar to the rest of the coast. It does however have lots of ruins and remains of Lycian settlements, some sunken and submerged, some dating back to beyond fouth century BC. The whole area is now commercialised with tripper boats and gulets taking over the popular sites and anchorages, some do dissappear in the evening but not all and those that stay leave their generators on and turn up the music. Still we did find some lovely places and managed to walk some of the Lycian Way, a long distance trail which runs along the Turquoise coast taking in places of interest from Roman and Byzantine times. The whole trail in theory takes up to month to complete, with an asortment of surfaces to walk on. Needless to say we only completed a short part taking in the sites of Teimiussa and Aperlae, swimming over the now submerged ruins, enchanting.
We felt we had seen enough and were not going to go any further east and decided to head back west. We had been told of a new marina that was open but not charging yet as they had not got their licence from the government and therefore couldn't take any money. We arrived in Kas marina where they even gave us 5€ of electric to use and we could stay as long as we liked, seemed rude not to. We stayed a week taking in the delights of Kas and the surrounding area. Taking the advantage of a free spot and eating out in the town.

We were very close to the furthest point of Europe, the Greek island of Kastellorizion, 70 miles east of Rhodes. It seemed silly not to go especially as there may be the chance of some cheep beer and pork - there wasn't. The island was enchanting with much history from shipbuilders in the 19th century stuggling on with sail boats and not converting to steam, WWI saw its relations with Turkey (a mile away) dry up when the Turks joined the Allies. Kastellorision then joined the Dodecanese group of islands at the time being run by the Italians. In WWII when the Italians surrendered to the Allies it was occupied by the British for a year, just before they left a fuel dump caught fire and exploded distroying half the town. Many of the islanders emigrated after this to Australia or America and alot of the houses remain abandoned today but many have been beautifully restored by returning emigres.

A long motor, the wind that was forecast didn't happen, and a change of flag saw us in the beautiful anchorage off the island of Gemiler. With the improved weather the water was now warm enough to swim and take lines ashore although this is where we first met the "ice cream man", he kindly helps you with your shore lines and then gets you to buy one of his ice creams at highly inflated prices - bartering is a must or you just say no but they became tiresome bothering you most of the day. A walk ashore before he tripper boats was interesting, a ruined Byzantine settlement with many buildings intact enough to appriciate them. Four churches on a island less than a half a mile long and quarter of a mile wide and a superberb covered walkway to the highest point, sadly mostly collapsed but we were early enough to still have shade!
A late sail thus more wind saw us back in Fethiye to stock up and do a little sight seeing. Amphitheatre, Sarcophagi and Rock Tombs dating back to 4th century BC. There were thoughts of a walk (7km or so through pine forest) to KoyaKal, the abandoned Greek village of 1922 which is the setting of the Louis de Berniers's novel Birds without Wings which describes events leading up to the Greek/Turkish population exchange and the birth pangs of modern Turkey under Ataturk. A painful knee and the heat put a stop to the thought and sadly since then we heard it would have been very worthwhile, something to go back for! We needed to be somewhere we could swim, not advisable off Fethiye town and so we headed off just after midday to suffer out first engine failure of the year. Overheating caused by a broken impeller. Engine off, P maintained a course under sail, whilst G replaced the impeller for a new one and cooled the engine down. It only took 20 minutes then original course was resumed to an idyllic anchorage with more ruins, tripper boats were there during the day but left late afternoon leaving a peaceful anchorage. We visited other bays in the Gocek area before a dash to the town to stock up and sit out yet another thunderstorm and torrential rain. Apart from the rain its an area that we'd recommend to cruise especially if chartering for a week or 2, sailing across the bay to a different anchorage each day all in green surroundings because of the rain!

We headed back west to have a new sprayhood made for the boat, the old one was only just holding together. We avoided Marmaris, too touristy and noisy in favour of some new anchorages where we could swim. We were also planning to meet up with some "ex-cruisers", Ian and Yvonne from the boat Nichola Jane, who we'd met in our first year out, who were chartering in the area.

Wednesday, 4 May 2011

Starting Cruising 2011

With a deadline to meet Restless Lady in Symi in 10 days time we needed to start moving even if the weather wasn't as good as we wish for. Rassy Lady (with a hijacked Frank from Marinerme - his boast was unsailable at the time) and Crazydream set off on the 30 miles south to Kos. In hindsight, too long for the first sail but good to get to the marina and meet up with Cloud 9. They had the use of a car and repaid a favour from 5 years back in Kalamata and took us to the shops to stock up on the essentials - beer and wine, notoriously expensive in Turkey our planned destination for this years cruising. We think Cloud 9 were suitably impressed by the amount we fitted in the car.
After one thoroughly enjoyable night socialising and more planned, the weather turned in our favour and thus we made the decision to go, even giving up the offer of another beer run. Lines undone and we were heading for Nisiros. Winds were fluky and we saw gusts up to 26kts and then down to 3kts - definitely a Gordon sailing day! Good to arrive in the harbour and our first anchor back to the quay went like the book says and our lines were taken by Sven, from C'est La Vie, we hadn't seen him since a drunken post wall painting in Portugal 2004.

A car hire with Rassy Lady (price bartered for by P) took us to the Volcano of Nisiros, the newest large active volcano of the Aegean Sea, having only starting to appear 160,000 years ago! We were able to walk in the crater named Stefanos, smelling the sulphur from the numerous vents some of which were bubbling away. Made more awesome as we were the only ones there. The wild flowers on the rest of the island were beautiful, certainly a good time to visit.
Sailing on to Tilos we opted to walk rather than hire a car (couldn't get the price down!). A 2 hour up hill walk to Mikro Horio, a ghost village whose 1200 inhabitants left for the port town of Livadhia in the 50's. The only intact structures are a church and a house that is now a music pub in the summer months. The church was locked when we got there, sod's law as we walked down, two locals drove up and opened the church and rung the bell!! It was Easter whilst we were in Tilos and the procession with the shrine had the whole village (all 50 of them) doing a circuit of the village before the church service, ringing bells and lots of bangers at midnight. The bangers had been going off since we had arrived back in Greece, don't really think they needed to practice them as much as they did!
We were paying in Tilos and thus we moved on even though it was still windy and wavy and thus a wet and rolly sail to the island of Symi.

Our First anchorage of the year saw us in Panormitis a large key hole bay with a large picturesque monastery in it. Symi's biggest rural attraction. Worth a look round and a loaf of bread from the bakers a must. Our first BBQ of the year but coats, long trousers and blankets were required - still we did BBQ. The anchorage was a place you could stay for a while, supplies ashore and a bus to Symi Town but we think it would get very busy in the summer.
With a poor weather forecast, thunderstorms and rain, we moved onto Symi Town. An eventful quay with crossed anchor chains, trapped anchors on underwater obstructions, we even saw a yacht dump its stainless anchor and chain as it had got into so much difficulty one day and then watch the local diver recover it all the following day. We were thankfully OK and even with a strong wind coming into the harbour held OK but saw alot of people leave, some with more difficulty than others!

Restless Lady appeared with Colin, Jill and Emile and tied up perfectly in 30kts, Pimms already in hand. A lot of catching up and drinking was done before a very enjoyable meal ashore in the "best restaurant" in town. Lets just say there were some shabby heads the next day but Restless Lady carried on with their intinery of getting the boat back to Spain in 5 weeks and moved on - even in the rain!!
A day recovering, sightseeing and shopping before we headed off to Turkish waters in a nice gentle breeze.

Tuesday, 12 April 2011

Winter 2010-11

The winter in the UK seemed to fly by even though we both didn't get full time work. P eventually began working full time for NHS Professionals in Portsmouth Hospitals but G was less successful with only "odd job man" maintenance work coming in, but this gave us pocket money to keep us going through the winter. We could write all about our working lives but it really is monotonous and would have you changing pages quicker than ever! We really do understand why people don't send many emails in the summer months when all they have to talk about is their working life.
We returned to Crazydream late March to get her ready for the summer, bottom needed painting and a polish of the hull was required. These completed she was able to leave her winter berth ashore in Leros.

The weather threw us a bit in that it was cold - the sun would shine but the wind was strong and from the north thus dropping the temperature considerably. We soldiered on - with coats on, and got all the jobs done and Crazydream floating again. We now just wait for the right weather window to get started on our summer cruise 2011.