End of an Era

Trizonia "Marina"

A very early start saw Anne Marie off the boat to catch the 5am bus to Athens, a few hours later (when it was daylight) we headed for

Trizinia "village"

Trizona. We had enjoyed our stay there some 7-8 years ago and were looking forward to a few nights there again. It wasn't quite the same without our friends around us but still a great safe place to be stuck when the wind is blowing hard and from the wrong direction.

Rion Bridge in the Gulf of Patra

Eventually the wind eased and we headed off west under the Rion bridge, an impressive sight which never looks high enough for you to go under until your under it and then there's lots of room. We stopped in Messolongi where we were welcomed by a crew we hadn't seen since Kalamata, Merv & Sandra from Aphrodite although they had changed their boat and are now with Gitano. We caught up on each others news and were treated to a Lidl's and Carrefour run to stock up before heading into the Ionian.

So much for light winds and quiet nights when we reach the Ionian. Our first anchorage was windy and rough well into the night, surprising for a shallow, well protected bay. By morning it was calm. We moved on to a favourite anchorage of ours when we were last in the Ionian to be very disappointed to find a 110ft long dutch barge anchored in one arm with at least 6 lines ashore

110ft barge and sunken boats

fromvarious parts of the boat and in the other arm of the anchorage was two abandoned yachts one of which had sunk. We were put off though or rather we weren't going back out into wind and sea that had picked up. We found a spot and tied back with a couple of lines ashore and stayed two nights. This was when we found that the batteries had truly come to the end of their life and needed replacing urgently. A longer trip than we originally planned saw us out in rough seas and stronger winds than forecast, well until it stopped when we got to the north coast of Meganisi. We decided to stop in Vlikho bay for the night before heading up to Lefkas town to part with some money for the new batteries. Not as much as we feared but enough!


Having fitted the batteries, Rusty Beaver (Colin & Jean) moored alongside us and we caught up with their news and decided to do a little cruising together, heading the following day to Abelike Bay, another

Another downpour in Abelike Bay

favourite spot. This saw the first of several days of heavy downpours followed by sunshine and then the traditional evening BBQ. We decided we needed to give the batteries a proper charge and went into the "new" marina in Vathy on Meganisi. It really was an extension to the town quay with some laid lines and a breakwater with a cost that took in the width of your boat as well as the length. We did have good protection though for the next downpour and strong winds that came through! The boat was getting several wash offs.

More rain!

A nice place that we found was Palaros on the mainland coast, a small harbour with no charge and free water. The town was good for shopping, if up a steep hill and there was some good tavernas at the right prices away from the main tourist areas. The beach was idyllic at the end of the breakwater and with the water tap behind the boat there was no rush to leave, we stayed 6 nights before moving on.

We moved on to some other anchorages with some good sailing to get to them  but the anchorages were getting busy with yachts and uncomfortable with wind and waves at times. P was really not enjoying it as much as she use to, worrying and not sleeping when the boat was moving around at anchor. Things were changing and after some days of discussing it we made a sign for the back of the boat, For Sale!!

Crazydream

Time to carry on though as the Normans were soon due out on their annual holiday but this year they were hiring a Sunsail boat with all the family and not staying on Crazydream. We planned to meet them in Lefkas and we or rather P decided we'd go into the marina, bugger the expense. Yes it was expensive, 40€ plus VAT, water, electric and showers. It was Solent prices or more! There also happens to be a yacht broker on site and we went to see them out of curiosity and what price they would try to get for the boat. Well when they said they'd try for 45K we filled in the forms and had pictures taken thinking it would take months or years for anything to happen, G thinking they won't get that for it.

Supplies to "Maggie May"

We had a great time sailing alongside the Normans on Maggie May for a week, a different holiday for both, Crazydream was the store vessel for Maggie May with condiments being handed over mid voyage as lunch was being served! BBQ's most nights, not easy to cook for 8 on a boat size BBQ but G managed and the

Crazydream with Maggie May

week went by very quickly and we headed back up to Lefkas with Maggie May as we intended to go north from there. That plan changed as we saw some other cruisers that we had not seen for many years just before we entered the Lefkas canal, Miss Sophie, Harriet and Gustaf.

Having seen the Normans off we headed back down the canal to meet up with Miss Sophie and to catch up on all their news, hours flew by and we ended the evening with a lunch invite for the next day. That's when our lives changed.

A phone call from the yacht broker, we have a couple who would like to view your boat - today. The spec had not even gone live but this Russian couple were very interested. So lunch was cancelled and a rush to

meet the broker in Nidri for the viewing. Cut a long story short and after some negotiating we accepted an off for Crazydream subject to a test sail an survey the following day. That all went well with the surveyor only picking up some dampness around the deck fittings - quite normal for a 30 year old boat. And so

Crazydream was sold. We were numb and shocked to say the least. It wasn't meant to happen that quick but we couldn't turn down the offer what if no one else ever looked at her let alone offer a good price. So many people are still trying to sell their boats years later. It was definitely too soon for G who was still

 Belongings for the Pallet

enjoying the sailing, stronger wind the better. Following an email out to friends we know that he will still be able to get his fix if need be. Further shock was to be had in that the Russians wanted the sail to go through quickly and we had two weeks to clear our stuff off. They paid half the coast of a berth in Lefkas and we started the job of what  to keep and what not. 250kg on a pallet was shipped home, 3 hold luggage bags

and some extra bits sent home with Kathryn who was staying on board the last week we owned Crazydream.

Crazydream

She had booked her flights just before we knew we sold her and so spent a strange holiday on board in the marina with day trips out in a car. We had had our last sail on Crazydream and could not take her out again, it would have been too emotional for both of us.

An end of an era, 14 great years on a great boat with lots and lots of memories. Now to plan the next adventure.

Setting Off

Sunday Lunch with many friends

Is the anchor in?

After much socialising and waiting for the right weather, wind direction as well as temperature, we finally managed to slip our lines from Leros. A little lump in the throat and tear in the eye, we'd been on the island for six years and had got to feel at home there. Not too much time to dwell about it as sails were raised and equipment altered and checked.

Flat Calm Cyclades!

We were enjoying our first sail of the season with a beat to windward in a gentle force 3 breeze, lovely but it was chilly with jumpers and coats needed. Needless to say the next day we were reefed down (less sail) and crashing into a big lumpy sea, this was the Cyclades after all!
The Cyclades is notorious for being windy with big seas hence we had waited for the window to cross in the best weather we could. One trip we were sailing, cracking along at 6-7 kts on a beat when the wind turned off for twenty minutes and then filled from totally a different direction and much stronger. A 90' course alteration and change of destination led to a much longer day at sea but a more comfortable ride. Thankfully a very safe anchorage was at the end of that 45nm trip. 
Next day flat calm! We took the opportunity to visit Delos or rather look at it from the sea, we've done so many ancient sites we didn't feel the need to go ashore. We continued to cross the Cyclades in relative calm, some sailing and some motoring covering 220nm in 7 days.

Poros

Ancient Epidhavros

We arrived in Poros with a greeting from Frank and Jenny on Marinerme, needless to say a few drinks were had and some cruising together for a few days or rather sitting out some strong winds together in the idyllic fishing village of Vathi on the Methana pennisula.

Transiting the Corinth Canal

We picked up our first guest of the season, Anne Marie, in Poros where again we sat out some very strong winds and heavy rain before moving on to anchor and to call in at Palaia Epidhavros. We opted not to visit the  large theatre about 30km away but made do with the smaller ancient Epidhavros a short walk away. Unfortunately we didn't find the sunken city, we were looking in the wrong place!!
A couple of anchorages and then we were heading for the Corinth Canal. An early start saw us transiting the canal at 8am in the company of a tall ship and its pilot boat. We've done the canal before but still an awesome experience and we remembered to take the bimini down this time for a better view.

Corinth Canal

We were now in the Gulf of Corinth on our way to the Ionian and there was no wind so Anne Marie was motoring on her sailing holiday stopping in Andikiron and Galaxidhi before dropping her in Itea for her trip back to Athens on the bus and for us to stock up at the supermarket before carrying on west.

Looking down on Galaxidhi

Galaxidhi just before the rain!

Return to Crazydream

At last we were returning to Greece and Crazydream.

First sight of Islands

We treated ourselves to a hotel at Heathrow, the Heathrow Lodge, not special but cheap and on the free bus route to terminal 5. It saved the 3am early rise and someone having to drop us off. We also had a hotel in Athens to save the unsociable ferry arrival in Leros or the overnight wait in the airport. We can recommend the Peris Hotel, they pick you up and drop you back at the airport with breakfast included for 80€. A nice short break before the work starts on getting Crazydream ready to go back in the water.


The usual polishing and anti fouling all went smoothly and quickly which was lucky as the weather wasn't quite up to its normal standards with rain, strong winds and low temperatures. The quilt came out as did the heater and hot water bottle. The quilts still on 4 weeks later!! Launching was brought forward due to a forecast gale coming through for 2 days so when we got in the water we battened down the hatches whilst 40kts+ blew for 48 hours.

Easter at Popy's

Thankfully the weather improved for the Greek Orthodox Easter which saw the marina host a free lunch at a local taverna, the marina cafe on site not being open yet! Amazing how many people were hiding on their boats and came along to enjoy the celebrations (and the free lunch!).The traditional spit lamb was served up along with plenty of salad and Greek side dishes, the wine flowed too!




With the boat ready and stocked to leave for the season we waited for the right weather window to go and temperatures to improve, otherwise the off-shore gear would be getting a dusting off, its not been out since France! The island of Leros is a hard place to leave as we have made many new friends here including some of the locals. With many crews returning to their boats each day its too easy to stay and socialise more.
We will slip the lines soon!

Lakki & Anchorage

Entrance to Lakki's Natural Harbour

Winter 2014

We managed to have a final sail before heading to the UK, heading the 12 miles or so to Lipsi to one of our favourite tavernas. Again sails were reefed down, the deck got wet and the boat was tipping over - Gordon would say 10' P would say nearer 45', oh for some light winds. Still with it being windy there was plenty of room on the town quay where we moored stern too and watch the entertainment of the charter boats coming into moor. Rassy Lady joined us for a reunion after there trip north, some excellent non typical meals were enjoyed at Manoli's Taverna in the town square.
The return trip to Leros was just s windy and large waves so we needed the reefs yet again and we were down wind sailing! Two other boats were heading the same way and although it was not a race it was good to finish second when we were the smallest yacht. Back in the marina it was like a different day, light winds and very warm. Time to start packing the boat up for winter and storage ashore whilst we return to the UK to earn some money to cruise again in 2015.

A cold morning on the cut!

 Cosy down below!

We say we were home to earn some money but of course after the summer on the boat we were due a holiday! Dave & Marilyn had invited us on to their newly purchased narrow boat, we cruised on the Grand union and Oxford canals but didn't always get where we wanted due to lock maintenance! It was a cruel return to the UK weather with frost for two mornings and torrential rain for one series of locks. The log fire was welcome every evening. A great taster of "living on the cut", not put off and so you may see Crazydream on the French canals yet.
Now we are truly back into work and catching up with people when we can. P, as always back at the hospital, G putting his hand to odd jobs. A new shed roof, fitting a banister just two of the undertakings at Torrington road for his Mum. He also managed a short stint back a Quay Graphics, the print firm who he has worked for in previous winters.
Some house sits over the winter has seen us being able to return some of the hospitality we often receive at others, Christmas and New Year with friends was memorable and P actually went back to work for a rest!!!
With flights booked to go back to the boat we are just concentrating on trying to save some money whilst working out where the boat will go in the coming season. But we have still managed to catch up with some friends on our days off and the pics show just a few of the gatherings.

Cream Tea in Somerset with Sandi & Colin

                                                                              

G, Sue, P, Angela, Pete & John in Dartmouth

 

G, Judy, Richard & Anne Marie at Sandbanks

Summer 2014

Leros Marina with Lakki Town

Having an annual contract has made us lazy (or lazier!) this year, we kept returning to the marina and staying there rather than going out sailing. Its a good marina with a nice shower block with plenty of hot water, if you're lucky someone has left some credit on a pillar on the pontoon and you pick up some free water and electric for the boat. There always seems to be a breeze by the late morning making it a comfortable temperature. The downside is the distance to the town and shopping but now that we have the "Brompton's" its a lot easier and quicker, they also give us the chance to explore more of the island. We visited the Italian battlements from the second world war. Underground tunnels, gun emplacements and even a tank up on the hill in the centre of Leros giving the troops a panoramic view of the island and neighbouring islands. Very thought provoking.

light wind sailing!

Thankfully we had more visitors and so we headed back to sea eventually and picked Jane and Mark up again from Kalymnos. Its an easy place for people to get to from Kos airport with a short bus ride and ferry trip (not always on the same day though!). We planned to visit some islands that we'd not been to before and with the forecast decided to head down towards the north west coast of Rhodes to Khalki and Alimia, some 70 miles south with islands in the way! A gentle first day saw us in Pserimos for a welcome swim and the nightly BBQ after that the wind picked up and gave us bumpy rides to the islands of Yali and Tilos - how do the waves get that big in the Med? We were lucky to find  space in the small harbour of Livadhi on Tilos but not so lucky to find a sheared off bolt on the deck from the inner forstay (a wire that helps keep the mast up!).

Alimia anchorage

As the island is small with limited supplies  a temporary repair was carried out but even that consisted of headlining down in the fore peak - very messy and cutting back the lay up of the boat that was encapsulating the bolts. Two bolts replaced (all we had) and the boat put back together a few hours later. Thankfully  Livadhi has a lovely beach, clear water and trees for shade to escape to, we seriously recommend it to anyone wanting a chill out and do nothing break.

Khalki

We managed to head off the next day heading for some anchorages on Khalki and Alimia, idyllic places with very few people in them. Ashore on Alimia are some abandoned buildings used by the Italians and Germans in WW11 with some nostalgic cartoons drawn by them on the walls. No one lives on the island, there is just the few tourists who take the water taxi from Khalki to there for the day, you have the island often to yourself. Sadly there were numerous wasps when we were at anchor which were very annoying and even stung P who reacted with a very red swollen arm which needed cream, tablets and an injection from the local Dr! We spent 3 days on the quay/pontoon in Khalki due to strong winds, its not ideal shelter and the pontoon was very rickety making the boat move quite a bit. We spent more time ashore eating or swimming off the pontoon than on the boat. Finally the wind eased and allowed us to start making the trip back north stopping at Symi, Tilos and Nisiros, winds were anything from having us reefed down, motoring or the light weight cruising chute - ah the Mediterranean wind, its either no wind, too much wind or on the nose wind!!

Escapade & Crazydream in Nisiros

Jane & Mark got the ferry from Nisiros to Kos for their return trip and we stayed on in Nisiros to meet up with Svein and Caryn from Escapade. With good company, an excellent restaurant and too much wind from the north (the way we wanted to go) we stayed over a week. Finally the wind eased enough to head back to Leros in two hops, we needed reefs in the main as the wind was lighter than it had been but was still causing us to get water over the foredeck - the canals are seriously becoming a option!

Again some free electric and water saw us staying in the marina for longer than we should but there was the repair of the inner forestay to do, headlining to be stuck, water pump to be mended then subsequently replaced, the jobs are endless, we even started some internal varnishing. Then there's all the people to socialise with, we will get out there again soon - honest!!

Early Summer 2014

Crazydream at anchor

A leasurely return to Crazydream this year, a few jobs to do before we were lifted out of the water for a survey that our insurance company had requested. Crazydream is 30 years old and needs an "all clear" for the insurance company to keep taking our money! Whilst out of the water Gordon took the opportunity to drop the rudder and make the bearings looser to lighten the steering. Surprisingly this was all done with relative ease over a day or so but having booked 10 days ashore many other jobs were done leaving a whole day at the end for the survey. A nice chap, Ioannis Galouzis from Kos agreed to do the survey and happily took our money before delivering a favourable report. All that maintanence is worth while.

Once back in the water we prepared ourselves and the boat for our first guest of the year. We have an annual contract again this year and were in no rush to head out. The weather this year is unsettled and was still chilly in the evening in late May and strong winds from the south.

Anne Marie on Crazydream

Early June saw Anne Marie join us for 10 days. Pick up in Kalymnos went as arranged before we headed north for her stay. We visited many idyllic anchorages that Anne Marie had not been to on Matapan, we didn't want to bring back too many sad memories. Only one day of strong winds saw us held up in Lipsi on the town quay for a couple of nights. A safe place to be and the chance to visit one of our favourite resturants in the area, Manoli's in the centre of the village.

 Some down wind sailing to Kos where we hired a car to drop Anne Marie off with relatives who happened to be holidaying on the island. We shared a meal with Lucy, Steve and Beatrice before we headed back to Crazydream.

Goose winging downwind

Keeping the car the following morning to shop in Lidl's - a must for every cruiser when you can!

A return to Lakki marina for some rest before our next guest - the berth is paid for so we may as well use it! A little socialising with some of the other boat owners we knew before heading back to Kalymnos to pick up Kathryn. A few hick ups in that we weren't actually berthed when her flight landed and when her ferry arrived we missed it as we were sitting in the shade and it crept in without us seeing it. A text from Kathryn saying she was on our boat was all that made us move!!

With Kathryn's nick name of "windy witch" there of course was a blow forecast for a few days time, so a short sail to Pserimos with the hope of seeing some dolphins (didn't happen) before a swim and bbq in a lovely anchorage. Wind increased overnight and as we left the anchorage in the morning, just under genoa, we saw 32 kts and a large sea north of Kos. It became less as we travelled down the passage between Kos and the Turkish coast but at the notoriuos SE corner of Kos the wind increased and we were reefing  - the blow wasn't meant to start for another 36 hours. We headed straight for Nisiros and secured a spot on the outer breakwater, stern to the wind and as forecast the wind increased as did the waves outside the harbour.

Roma Bath, Nisiros

Windy at the Monastry

On our second day the wind was a force 8-9 with the waves crashing over the breakwater an covering the boat with salt. The motion of the boat was not very pleasant and the girls opted to go sight seeing whilst Gordon stayed on board - just in case. We took the early bus to the main town of Mandraki, visiting the monastry, the fortifications of the ancient city (a 30 minute up hill walk out of the village) and the archelogical museum.

Mandraki, Nisiros

Nisiros Crater

Pali Harbour

Looking down on the harbour at Pali on our return the waves were crashing on the breakwater and along the beach, resembling the Gold Coast in Australia - we'd have taken photo's but the bus didn't stop and the windows were all covered in salt! Five nights we stayed in Nisiros, hiring a car to see the Volcano and its craters,  the village of Nikia with its Volcanological Museum, natural sauna's and roman baths. With the motion on the boat uncomfortable scrabble was adjourned to the local taverna! They even put the British Grand Prix on for us to watch.

Eventually we managed to leave having washed all the salt off the boat to then sail into wind getting the decks all salty again and found ourselves stopping in Kos on the free quay. Plenty of depth for us but after a sleepless night due to the noisy holiday makers we remembered why we pay the money and go into the marina! An early start back to Kalymnos with a stronger wind forecast we were reefed down and salt all over the deck, again. Paulines sense of humour really is now fading and this windy, tippy sailing lark is coming to an end for her. A nice last night for Kathryn in Stukas taverna on the front before an early ferry back to Kos and Gordon & Pauline returned to Lakki for a rest and yet another wash off!

As luck would have it Svein and Caryn, friends who had sadly lost their boat to a fire last year but who have since bought another with the insurance payout, were due in Lakki and they had our bikes on board.  They had offered to deliver them from Lefkas, where Gordon had seen them on his delivery trip, as they were coming this way and it would save us the postage. Amazingly they were unfolded at the back of "Escapade" and even after a long time of not being used, ridden back to Crazydream in the marina. A truely useful gift bequeathed to us from  s/y Matapan. 

Our Brompton bikes

A few nights of drinking and eating saw us catching up with all the news from Caryn and Svein before they headed off south, with plans to meet again in Nisiros in August. With the bikes it was now easier and much quicker to go into town for shopping, what would have taken up to 2 hours takes half an hour now, leaving time to do some jobs and catch up on some reading - a book on the French Canals for Pauline!!!!

Winter 2013/14

Slowly people were putting their boats to bed for the winter and heading home but not us. We had jobs we wanted to do and were likely to be messy and thus better when no one was on their boats close by.
The treadmaster on the deck was more worn out than in place and we had decided to remove it and paint

The new decks

the decks. Easy peasy you say - if only! After nearly 5 weeks of Gordon on his knees with either a chisel, file or sander taking the stuff off, then masking up the deck prior to painting "sand beige" deck paint. All in amongst the rain showers, it does however look great and really tidies up the boat.

varnished inside & new telly

That job done saw some inside work of varnishing and headlining resticking. Days were shorter and cooler with the temperature dropping at night. The cockpit tent, which hadn't been used since Kalamata was a God send, keeping the wind and rain off and enabling us to use the cockpit for jobs as well as sitting in the dry. The flat screen telly that we had treated ourselves too came in handy on the long dark nights too, although it was films we were watching rather than Greek telly.

The marina was very quiet with only 5 boats with crew on for the winter and all on different pontoons and all different languages - thankfully English was the universal language. There were some nights socialising on each others boats and in one case in an old Italian style house on the island that a crew were housesitting. When Christmas arrived we headed to one taverna on Christmas eve, a long walk there but with fantastic food and some Greek dancing, it was worth it. On Christmas day all the boat crews headed in a different direction to another taverna, many of us had been frequenting each month for lunch. Poppy served up excellant food and lots of it, with plenty of wine and beer, traditional spit roast pork, pies, pasta, soup and salads all for 15€ a head. No supper was required that evening.

We packed up the next day and as a treat stayed in a hotel for the night before flying back to the UK. We were staying with Anne-Marie of Matapan for a couple of days prior to New Years Eve in London for the fireworks.

Some planning at Anne-Maries was required for the return trip of Matapan to the UK. Gordon was going to help Anne-Marie, with some others, deliver Matapan from Turkey to Slovenia prior to overlanding Matapan

Punting on the Cam

to Holland and then finally the English Channel. After planning we spent a day in Cambridge and with a bright sunny winters day went punting on the Cam! Cold but entertaining.

Our time with Anne-Marie ended all too soon and we headed to London to stay on Taransay Mhor with Sandi and Colin in St Katherine's Dock. We did some sight seeing, went on a tradition London bus and managed 5 Whetherspoon pub's during our stay. We walked along the Thames for a great view of the fireworks on New Years Eve with all the crowds, it was spectacular and an experience but probably done on telly next time!

Finally time to head back to Portsmouth to work, P at the hospital and G to whatever he could find which turned out to be sorting some leaks at his Mum's house, decorating, driving and builders mate. Oh and the

G working, delivering a yacht!

delivery of Matapan in early March across the Aegean and up the Adriatic flying back to the UK after only 3 weeks away.
With all the mod cons we were able to speak to each other almost every day. Matapan took another week to get back across Europe, dropped in the water and sailed to the east coast where she is now based and up for sale.


Some house sitting for friends made the time left go very quickly and what with working it left little time to catch up with all the people we would have liked to - next time! For now it's back to Crazydream for the summer.